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"The Puligny of Pouilly."
- Jasper Morris on the Burrier Vers Cras
"Joseph Burrier is a reference in Pouilly Fuisse."
- Decanter Magazine
"Producer of The Year"
- Bourgogne Aujoud'hui
The domaines of the Burrier family, Chateau de Beauregard, Chateau du Clos, and the tiny Domaine de la Rochette on offer here are enigmas. How does Frederic Burrier make deep and rich, ripe and minerally whites more akin to Meursault than Macon?
Pouilly Fuisse has sites elevated to 1er Cru as of the 2020 vintage
It doesn’t take long when researching the best producers and sites in the south of Burgundy before one comes across the name of Frederic Burrier. The Burriers have been working in the vines since the 15th century and the family has owned the Chateau de Beauregard for 5 generations. These estates are all organic or in organic conversion.
These wines are ordered on a pre-arrival basis and are expected end of June 2023!
Winemaking - Frederic Burrier Style
Frederic's wines have a depth, richness, ageability and a Cote de Beaune-ish fullness of flavour and character that is impressive and rare in the Maconnaise. His wines have more extract, more glycerol (with balanced acidity) and more savoury elements than most.
He has great sites, mostly on slopes and limestone plateaux. All grapes are hand-picked, and what attracted me to the estate apart from Jasper Morris being a huge fan, is Frederic’s time honoured method of crushing the chardonnay fruit before a 'hard' pressing. Frederic has trialled not crushing the fruit, but he prefers the textural complexity, phenolic richness and 'backbone' that his time-honoured methods give. ‘But you must start with perfectly ripened and healthy grapes. The mashing / crushing of the fruit gives the wines more phenolic flavours and fleshier / firmer textures with antioxidants giving ageability, and other benefits.' He likes to use 8-10lt of lees in each 228lt barrel and he stirs the lees a couple of times a month for the first few months. All the 1er Crus and 1/2 the village wine component are matured in barrels, that are about 15-20% new. The combination of lovingly and expertly grown fruit, the best sites and the Burrier crushing and pressing technique make wines with that elusive combination of 'grunt', generosity and elegance; all with impressive complexity.
These Wines Age Well!
I recently tasted a Pouilly Fuisse 1985, 2004 and a 2011, and was mightily impressed. Frederic has recently been doing a re-corking program in his deep cellar, and he says that even he is surprised how well the old bottles from the 50's and 60's are looking!
Cheers, Randall.
Cheers, Randall.
These wines are ordered on a pre-arrival basis and are expected end of June 2023!
The Estates of the Burrier Family
Frederic and his family are blessed with 3 estates, run by Frederic with 3 separate dedicated vineyard teams and the wines are made in three different cellars.
Chateau de Beauregard - an impressive 42 ha estate including 6 different Pouilly 1er Crus, and 5 different Beaujolais Crus. All organic with some sites still in conversion
Chateau du Clos - A tiny estate situated at the base of the Solutre slope, just 800 metres from Beauregard. The Burrier family own 1/2 of the bulls' eye 1er Cru site of "Pouilly" but are in charge of growing and making all the wines from the vineyard.
Domaine de la Rochette - An 4.5ha estate based in Milly-Lamartine, purchased in 2015. The Aligote vines are ancient. Frederic uses 350-400lt barrels here. The Saint-Veran comes from the hillside site called Montagne de Cras and this wine with a few years under its belt has a Meursault-like richness.
These wines are ordered on a pre-arrival basis and are expected end of June 2023!
Dom. de la Rochette 2021 Bourgogne Aligote 'Les 17 Rangs'
RRP: $56 | Pre-Arrival: $47!
"Fennel, green apple, wet ferns, basil. Wonderful perfume. More of the same to taste, crisp but with depth and texture. Faint cinnamon spice, a lick of wheat biscuit, but mostly about the fruit and herbs. It’s beautiful in the texture department too, the finish with fennel flowers so delightful. And minerality! It’s a quietly complex and utterly delightful white wine." 94pts - Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Chateau du Clos 2018 Pouilly Fuisse 'Pouilly'
RRP: $129 | Pre-Arrival: $95!
"Bottled in March 2020. Fine clear bright colour. Magical bouquet, a little touch of roses rinsed in coconut. This carries the weight of fruit very easily, no feeling of heat here, a balanced 13.2%. Frédéric notes that he has to be careful here as ripening goes quickly. It is usually one of the first to be picked, though retaining a coolness in style." 91pts - Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Chateau du Clos 2020 Pouilly Fuisse 1er Cru 'Pouilly'
RRP: $159 | Pre-Arrival: $109!
"A slightly riper if otherwise similar nose precedes finer if not denser flavors that coat the palate in sappy dry extract that imparts a seductive mouthfeel to the bone-dry, youthfully austere and compact finale that is noticeably more tightly wound. In contrast to the straight Pouilly-Fuissé, this is going to require at least a few years of patience and should repay 5 to 8 years of cellaring." 91-93pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
Chateau du Clos 2018 Pouilly Fuisse 'Hommage a Leonard Chandon'
RRP: $175 | Pre-Arrival: $125!
This is a selection of the best barrels from the best plots in 1er Cru Pouilly.
"Bottled in March 2020. Fine pale primrose. The nose has superb density in the same style as the regular Pouilly, rose petals with a slight coconut infusion. Builds more and more in the mouth, without taking on too much heat." 92pts - Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Ch. de Beauregard 2020 Saint-Veran
RRP: $91 | Pre-Arrival: $77
Saint Veran wines are vibrant, almost lemony / Chablis-like but the Beauregard with 30yo vines and the mashing of the fruit prior to fermentation makes it richer than the norm. It benefits from a few years in bottle. In fact the 2019 is showing a little like a Meursault in its mealy, lanolin-like richness.
"With no ageing in cask, the 2020 Saint-Véran has a fresh nose with orange blossom, lemon sherbet and just a very slight smoky scents. Good vigour. The palate is well balanced with a saline entry, taut and fresh with a steely, quite strict finish. Give this a couple of years in bottle." 89pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
Ch. de Beauregard 2018 Saint-Veran 'En Faux'
RRP: $98 | Pre-Arrival: $83
This single vineyard site has 35yo vines on a S-E slope overlooking the village of Fuisse at a lofty 340mt. This is aged in older barrels.
"Joseph Burrier is a reference in Pouilly Fussie and this wine is produced from grapes on the south side of Mont de Pouilly ...The result recalls the round, supple style of the Burrier Pouilly-Fuisses...92." 92pts - Decanter Magazine
"...exotic nose features notes of white peach, passion fruit and petrol. There is good underlying tension to the moderately concentrated and well-detailed flavors that are wonderfully refreshing... Still, this is attractive in its fashion and particularly for its frank character." 88pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
Ch. de Beauregard 2021 Pouilly-Fuisse
RRP: $108 | Pre-Arrival: $92
From 30yo vines this is a rich wine that according to Frederic can easily be aged for 5 years. It's 1/2 barrel and 1/2 tank fermented; then the tank component is aged in a very large cement vat. Frederic is proud of this "innovation" and says there is peach and pear with acacia flowers, with a rich wine of lovely depth.
"Pungent aromas of wood toast and reduction presently dominate the underlying fruit. By contrast there is fine freshness and verve to the full-bodied, caressing and sappy middleweight flavors that terminate in an agreeably dry finish where touches of bitter lemon and oak slowly emerge." 89-91pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
Ch. de Beauregard 2018 Pouilly Fuisse 'Vers Cras' (Now 1er Cru!)
RRP: $130 | Pre-Arrival: $109
Click here to see Frederic talk about Vers Cras
This is our second shipment of this wine and the first shipment was emphatically mopped up with great enthusiasm. This is Jasper Morris’s favourite lieu dit of the estate, and it sits on a small plateau of shallow soil shot with limestone rocks on top of a limestone base. This is a blend of 2 sites, one with 60yo vines on the Pouilly side if Vers Cras, and the other from a very rocky site on the Fuisse side, making 4ha in total. So, in size this is the “flagship” 1er Cru site of the estate. The white burgundies in general in 2018 are showing far better than expected and continue to excite and improve. The Beauregard 2018’s have impressive richness and power. We are very happy to get hold of a small top-up with the last of this wine. Frederic says it shows “fern and box hedge, with chalky mineral notes, with the “rocky” component giving a real mineral push”. The site is windy site and the yields are very low, often below 3 tonnes / ha. As with all the other premier crus, this is matured in 25% new oak.
"Pale pure primrose. Very classy, the Puligny of Pouilly for its vibrant backbone, then fattens out somewhat behind, the fruit clings to the teeth." 92pts - Jasper Morris MW
"A ripe and nicely perfumed nose features notes of citrus blossom, acacia, pear compote and a whiff of spice. The precise and mineral-driven flavors... possess an attractive texture as well as good persistence on the youthfully austere and chiseled finish." 92pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
Ch. de Beauregard 2019 Pouilly-Fuisse 'Vers Cras' MAGNUM (Now 1er Cru!)
RRP: $280 | Pre-Arrival: $238
LIMITED!
This is Jasper Morris’s favourite lieu dit of the estate, and it sits on a small plateau of shallow soil shot with limestone rocks on top of a limestone base. This is a blend of 2 sites, one with 60yo vines on the Pouilly side if Vers Cras, and the other from a very rocky site on the Fuisse side, making 4ha in total. So, in size this is the “flagship” 1er Cru site of the estate. Frederic says it shows “fern and box hedge, with chalky mineral notes, with the “rocky” component giving a real mineral push”. The site is windy site and the yields are very low, often below 3 tonnes / ha. As with all the other premier crus, this is matured in 25% new oak.
"Picked on the 9th September, at 13.2% alcohol. Clear bright pale yellow with a little green tint. There is a toasty component from this which comes from this barrel, but the wine remains brilliantly precise and intense, with very full flowing fruit behind. From another barrel, the wine was less toasty and more chiseled with a pure, intense backbone." 92-95pts, 5 star wine! - Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Ch. de Beauregard 2017 Pouilly Fuisse 'La Marechaude' (Now 1er Cru!)
RRP: $130 | Pre-Arrival: $109
Click here to see Frederic talk about La Marechaude
“Hot tide” is the literal translation alluding to the site that is a warm sun trap, but also very cold at night. It’s a very steep rocky slope in the commune of Vergisson, just below the famous Roche de Vergesson. These vines are 40 yo, and Frederic has 1ha. he matures the wine in ¼ new barrels. Frederic says that this site always produces a wine with slight herbal, sauvignon-like nuance, but the wine has a full and sunny, rich character.
Ch. de Beauregard 2020 Pouilly Fuisse 1er Cru 'La Marechaude'
RRP: $172 | Pre-Arrival: $146
“Hot tide” is the literal translation alluding to the site that is a warm sun trap, but also very cold at night. It’s a very steep rocky slope in the commune of Vergisson, just below the famous Roche de Vergesson. These vines are 40 yo, and Frederic has 1ha. he matures the wine in ¼ new barrels. Frederic says that this site always produces a wine with slight herbal, sauvignon-like nuance, but the wine has a full and sunny, rich character. The daily temperature difference her is the greatest of all Beauregard sites.
"The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé La Maréchaude 1er Cru was picked in the final days of September. Amongst the domaine’s Premier Crus, this wine shows the most mineralité and tension on the nose at the moment. The palate is full of tension and salinity, fine weight with a slight nuttiness towards the finish. This oozes character and personality." 92-94pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
Ch. de Beauregard 2017 Pouilly Fuisse 'Les Insarts' (Now 1er Cru!)
RRP: $130 | Pre-Arrival: $109
This is a little less that 1ha, but the vines are a venerable 50yo. It’s a mid-slope (around 300mt) site in the Fuisse commune, and it’s a sub-set of Menetrieres (like the owners of Boudriotte in Chassagne can call the wine Boudriotte OR the more common name of Morgeot), but just a little higher. Jasper Morris MW says that these are “hugely powerful wines, but not cloying because of the intense minerality… one of their finest wines..” This only crops at a lowly 2.7 t / ha. This and the east-facing position on the “Fuisse amphitheatre” give wines of massive generosity, like a Meursault from Charmes. There possibly has not been a better vintage since 2017 for white burgundies, and it just keeps getting better! This is a beautiful ample and concentrated wine with a superb balance of ripe fruit, savory nuances, rocky tension and grippy textural complexity.
Ch. de Beauregard 2017 Pouilly Fuisse 'Les Vignes Blanches' (Now 1er Cru!)
RRP: $130 | Pre-Arrival: $109
Click here to see Frederic talk about Vignes Blanches
Beauregard Vignes Blanches is roughly a 1ha parcel in a large 1er Cru at 300mt overlooking the village of Fuisse. Because of the altitude and the 1mt of clay / marl topsoil this is a more elegant, seductive, slightly less rich than its siblings and Frederic believes its perfect at 5 years of age whereas his other 1er Crus improve for longer. The bedrock is the same limestone there is in Vosne 1er Cru Reignots. The 40yo vines give complexity and this has more white flower (they say acacia) and lemony notes, Jasper Morris MW says it has “weight and length but especially a sense of harmony.” There possibly has not been a better vintage since 2017 for white burgundies, and it just keeps getting better!
"The underlying rock is marlstone. Pale primrose with more floral notes. Glorious on the palate, peachy fruit, the flavours suggest ripeness but the structure is pristine. Around 13% alcohol and defined by brilliant length." 91pts - Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Ch. de Beauregard 2020 Pouilly Fuisse 1er Cru 'Les Vignes Blanches'
RRP: $172 | Pre-Arrival: $146
Beauregard Vignes Blanches is roughly a 1ha parcel in a large 1er Cru at 300mt overlooking the village of Fuisse. Because of the altitude and the 1mt of clay / marl topsoil this is a more elegant, seductive, slightly less rich than its siblings and Frederic believes its perfect at 5 years of age whereas his other 1er Crus improve for longer. The bedrock is the same limestone there is in Vosne 1er Cru Reignots. The 40yo vines give complexity and this has more white flower (they say acacia) and lemony notes, Jasper Morris MW says it has “weight and length but especially a sense of harmony.”
The 2020 is a classic wine in the making, with mineral notes and grilled almonds, doughy complexity and lemony fruit. It’s more Corton Charlamagne than Meursault."The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Vignes Blanches 1er Cru comes from 1 hectare of vines. This cru was promoted in this vintage and it was the first Premier Cru to be bottled. It was showing a bit of reduction on the nose when I tasted it. Cooking apple, nettle and light grapefruit notes coming through with time. The palate is fresh with fine acidity on the entry, hints of almond and hazelnut complementing the citrus fruit with decent tension on the finish. This is a finely-crafted Pouilly-Fuissé Premier Cru." 92-94pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
Ch. de Beauregard 2017 Pouilly Fuisse 'Vers Pouilly' (Now 1er Cru Les Reisses!)
RRP: $130 | Pre-Arrival: $109
This is now in the 1er Cru Les Reisses, but on the Pouilly side of the border, and as the name suggests near the 1er Cru of Pouilly. N-E facing, on the slope with 35yo vines, the 1ha (approx.) has a thin topsoil made up of Jurassic chalk and it gives a rich wine, sometimes Meursault-like but using Jasper Morris’s words squeezed into a mineral corset. At 5yo and a tip-top site, this is starting its peak drinking plateau with style and ease. This is made in a similar way to the current 1er Crus with mashing of the fruit, 100% barrel fermentation and ¼ new barrels, lees stirring etc, this is moving slowly in its evolution.
"This vineyard will be known as 1er Cru Les Reisses in due course. The Beauregard holding covers 1ha, relatively high up with little topsoil, very dry at the top. The soil is marl with a covering of downwash., facing north-east so less opulent than Ménétrières. White fruit sails through the middle, startling clarity with impressive flesh on the bones too." 93pts - Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Ch. de Beauregard 2020 Pouilly Fuisse 1er Cru 'Les Menetrieres'
RRP: $172 | Pre-Arrival: $146
Click here to see Frederic talk about Les Menetrieres
This site, situated in the east-facing mid-slope (about 275mt) Fuisse amphitheatre sector. Deep clay soil “Like Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres and Batard Montrachet”, it has deep clay and makes dense, ripe, large and impressive, powerful wines, like Chateau du Clos he also says.
"The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Ménétrières 1er Cru has really kicked on since I tasted it from barrel last year, mineral-driven, full of tension and complexity - more so than say, the Vignes Blanches. The palate is well balanced with a very slight reduction, flinty with smoked walnuts, deepening towards the end with fine grip on the finish. This surpasses my expectations from barrel - superb!" 93pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
Ch. de Beauregard 2017 Pouilly Fuisse 'Les Crays' (Now 1er Cru!)
RRP: $180 | Pre-Arrival: $153
Click here to see Frederic talk about Les Crays
This is the smallest of the burrier holdings, just .15 of a ha. planted by Frederic’s grandfather in 1949. It’s very steep and high, at the limit of the 1er Crus at 400mt. Jasper says that is could hardly be better placed, south facing below the craig of Vergisson, on very rocky earth. Frederic usually makes 2 barrels and has a tiny amount of “topping” wine left over.
"Frédéric Burrier has made one or two barrels a year since 2011 but has never sold any. The holding (0.13 ha) is at the top of the lieu-dit, planted in 1953. Touch of oak but behind it is full and bouncy, a delicious exuberant Pouilly-Fuissé which will also age well." 91pts - Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Ch. de Beauregard 2021 Pouilly Fuisse 1er Cru 'Les Crays'
RRP: $212 | Pre-Arrival: $179
LIMITED!
Burrier on the 2021’s; " We averaged only 18 hl/ha though as I noted. We picked from the 15th of September to the first of October. The fruit had good if not high levels of both sugar and acidity and the vinifications were relatively straightforward. One change though is that we did much, much more bâtonnage (lees stirring) than usual as I felt that the wines could use a bit more mid-palate fat. Overall, I like the vintage for its energy and transparency as the individual terroirs are very much apparent.”
This is the smallest of the burrier holdings, just .15 of a ha. planted by Frederic’s grandfather in 1949. It’s very steep and high, at the limit of the 1er Crus at 400mt. Jasper says that is could hardly be better placed, south facing below the craig of Vergisson, on very rocky earth. Frederic usually makes 2 barrels and has a tiny amount of “topping” wine left over.
"The 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Crays 1er Cru has a lovely bouquet with pressed white flowers and struck flint, discrete at first but unfolding nicely in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a little more rondeur than the other cuvées, yet there is fine acidity here and ample concentration on the finish. Very fine and quite sophisticated." 90-92pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
Ch. de Beauregard 2013 Pouilly Fuisse 'Grand Beauregard'
RRP: $240 | Pre-Arrival: $205
LIMITED!
Grand Beauregard is a barrel selection of the best sites / oldest vines (minimum 40yo), and Frederic reserves the right not to declare where it comes from. It’s usually a selection from Vers Cras, Marechaude, Insarts, Vignes Blanches and Les Reisses. About 6 barrels are usually chosen, and matured for 20 months. It’s a powerful, deep and solid wine with a large and complex aromatic profile, that ages exceptionally well. Many commentators compare it to Meursault and it certainly tastes like a 1er or grand cru in weight, concentration, length and complexity. With his fine palette of sites he, like KP Keller and his prestige GMax wine, can tailor-make something exceptional in each of the differing vintages. This is better than many grand crus at the price of ½ a famous 1er cru from Puligny.
Ch. de Beauregard 2015 Pouilly Fuisse 'Grand Beauregard' MAGNUM
RRP: $480 | Pre-Arrival: $409
LIMITED! - One per order
Grand Beauregard is a barrel selection of the best sites / oldest vines (minimum 40yo), and Frederic reserves the right not to declare where it comes from. It’s usually a selection from Vers Cras, Marechaude, Insarts, Vignes Blanches and Les Reisses. About 6 barrels are usually chosen, and matured for 20 months. It’s a powerful, deep and solid wine with a large and complex aromatic profile, that ages exceptionally well. Many commentators compare it to Meursault and it certainly tastes like a 1er or grand cru in weight, concentration, length and complexity. With his fine palette of sites he, like KP Keller and his prestige GMax wine, can tailor-make something exceptional in each of the differing vintages. This is better than many grand crus at the price of ½ a famous 1er cru from Puligny.
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