2010 Gimonnet Fleuron MAGNUM

94 points! A complex and immediate take on this mandate, 2010 is a vintage that fast developed on its release three years ago into a medium-straw hue (bright by any standards, yet deep for Gimonnet) and grand complexity. Amazingly, it has since held its own magnificently. After three more years on lees, its subtle evolution for a fast-evolving vintage is testament to the endurance of this house and its terroirs. Its vivacious core of lemon and grapefruit remain, as does its progression into mixed spice, toast, ginger and honey, now adding vanilla, nougat and toasted marshmallow to the party. It presents integrity and persistence remarkable for this weaker harvest. The impact of salty grand cru minerality remains transfixed, defining a long finish of vibrant acid line, invisible dosage and subtle, well-handled phenolic grip. I admired it then years ago, and I love it even more now. Tyson Stelzer