DOMAINE RAZAL
Virgin Hills was planted by Tom Lazar in 1968 in what was considered at the time a bold, almost radical move. He purchased a 125ha property just outside of Kyneton, at a 600m elevation, and planted predominantly to cabernet, malbec, shiraz and merlot.
This Hungarian-born Melbourne restauranteur and sculptor was determined to create a wine, different to what was being produced at that time. He worked with Owen Redman in Coonawarra and then created a series of famous wines in the early to mid-70’s that stamped the vineyard’s reputation with greatness.
Today the site is being treated with tender loving care and parts of the vineyard, previously “let go” are being rejuvenated and old vines kept where possible.
The current owners are Kerri and Stephen Stack and the winemaker from 2025 onwards (ex Curly Flat) is Ben Kimmorley.
These wines we are offering here were made by guru Matt Harrop (also ex-Curly Flat, and prior, Shadowfax).
I was seduced by the old vine depth, balance and “completeness” of the reds here, and the verve and (chablis-like) punch of the chardonnay.
THIS WEEK'S SPECIALS
Cancelled Export Order
2020 Prinz Jungfer (Grand Cru Site) Riesling Kabinett
WAS: $59.90 | NOW: $34 ($360 doz)
‘A stunning Kabinett that’s brimming with red apple, white peach and pomegranate. Very tense interplay of fruit, racy acidity and mountain-stream freshness. From organically grown grapes. Screw cap.' 94 points - Stuart Pigott, James Suckling
2020 Prinz Jungfer GG Riesling Trocken (Dry)
WAS: $125 | NOW: $79 ($420 6pack)
'Very cool and reserved, but with great underplayed power, this is in every sense a very serious wine. Major structure crammed into a sleek package. Stunning depth at the very long, herbal and mineral finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. 97 points - Stuart Pigott, James Suckling
JUST IN!
The 2023 Riesling Karthäuserhofberg Grosses Gewächs is, as usual, from the Kronenberg parcel at the top of the Karthäuserhofberg. A most scented nose immediately strikes with hayflowers, yarrow and tansy united with creamy citrus. It smells emollient, like a balm. The wonderfully slender palate packs its striking citrus into the smoothest gentleness.
The 2023 has such lightness, svelteness, fill and glorious texture. It is a wonderful wine of great exactitude. (Bone-dry)
- By Anne Krebiehl MW
