Burrier, Verget, Domaine Leflaive, Heritiers Comte Lafon
"A standout at its price" - Halliday (Burrier Macon-Milly)
"A wine of class" 95 points - Halliday (Burrier Pouilly Fuisse 1er)
"The striking amplitude and dimension that are invariably tensile and incisive." - Will Kelley on Verget / Guffens.
"The Puligny of Pouilly" - Jasper Morris on one of the Beauregard wines.
"It is hard to choose (between them)" - Jasper Morris on Lafon
The Leflaive Macons are "Back"! They have the magic
and strength of the "old Leflaive". These are amazing value for money and qualitatively powerful, complex and stimulating.
These wines from Frederic Burrier are some of the greatest finds of the decade. rich, powerful and bursting with "old-school Meursault-like" flavours, something James Halliday agreed with when I spoke with him. He wrote in his The Australian, "Australian makers of chardonnay shrink from extractive characters, but Burrier chases them, making wines that have more glycerol (with balanced acidity) and more savoury elements than most". To read more: Halliday's Glory to the Great Wines of Burgundy
"Joseph Burrier is a reference in Pouilly Fuisse." Decanter Magazine 2022
The Domaine's of the Burrier family, Chateau de Beauregard, Chateau du Clos, and the tiny Domaine de la Rochetteare enigmas. How does Frederic Burrier make deep and rich, ripe and minerally whites more akin to Meursault than Macon?
2021 Joseph Burrier Domaine de la Rochette Mâcon-Milly-Lamartine Montagne de Cra
RRP: $54 | Offer: $47
"A standout at its price, with its lively, mouth-watering mix of citrus, green apple and mineral flavours that can be sure to add emphasis with time, but doesn’t need cellaring per se. From a tiny appellation seldom seen outside France. 94 points; drink to 2027" - James
2017 Joseph Burrier Chateau de Beauregard Pouilly-Fuisse La Marechaude
RRP: $130 | Offer: $115
2017 remains one of the great white vintage (maybe second only to 2014) in recent times. "The bouquet is multi-faceted, and it leaps the moment the wine enters the mouth; delicious white grapefruit cut balanced by a complex touch of 20 per cent new barrel maturation. It is tautly structured and is as fresh as a spring day. 95 points; drink to 2030" -James Halliday
2020 Joseph Burrier Chateau de Beauregard Pouilly-Fuisse 1er Cru 'La Marechaude'
RRP: $172 | Offer: $155
This is a shining example of the "Meursault-like" character that this producer achieves. This site has very cold nights and sunny days, and is a reputed 1er Cru. "An appealing bouquet with honey and toasted cashew that opens the door to a bracing, multi-faceted palate of considerable length, with Meyer lemon, pith and zesty acidity. Its balance augurs well for those with 10 years’ patience. A wine of class. 95 points; drink to 2035" - James Halliday
After a few years of making wines that I felt were good but not great, these Leflaive wines now deserve the label. Last year's releases were amazing, but this year's wines are truly superb! - Randall.
Today at the biodynamic "domaines" Leflaive (Macon and Puligny) is in the hands of Brice de La Morandiere, Anne-Claude Leflaive’s nephew, with the talented Pierre Vincent in charge of vineyards and winemaking.
"The Leflaive 2021s have a vivid, lively intensity and spotless purity. And this marriage of characteristics produces some amazing vins d’émotion." -Steen Ohman, Winehog
2021 Domaine Leflaive Macon Verze
RRP: $102 | Offer: $89
Domaine Leflaive brought significant holdings here in 2004. This majority white site lies in the folds in the hills west of the escarpment overlooking the Saone. The slight savory reduction and concentrated exotic fruit are elevated this vintage. This Domaine made really impressive wines in 2021! - Randall
2021 Domaine Leflaive Macon-Verze Les Chenes
RRP: $119 | Offer: $99
LIMITED TO 2 PER PERSON
I feel that Allen is a bit stingy with his score here, as I feel that this is complex and substantial Burg worth a bit more. It comes from about 10k north of the Pouilly epicentre. - Randall. "A wonderfully fresh and quite spicy nose reflects mostly notes of green apple, lemon rind and a suggestion of petrol. The racy yet rich and nicely concentrated medium weight flavors conclude in a markedly citrusy, clean, dry and sneaky long finale. Fine quality here for what this is. 89 points. Outstanding" - Allen Meadows, Burghound
2021 Domaine Leflaive Macon-Verze Le Monte
RRP: $119 | Offer: $99
LIMITED TO 1 PER PERSON
Anne-Claude was instrumental in the purchase of this site in 2004; she would be very happy with this wine, and so am I! I also feel it deserves more than a 90. - Randall.
"This is also exuberantly fresh with its more floral-suffused array of mineral reduction and similar green apple scents. There is a bit more volume to the equally vibrant middleweight flavors that flash evident minerality on the finish that is clean, dry and long while offering just a bit more depth. This too is very good for the appellation and recommended. 90 points. Outstanding, top value" - Allen Meadows, Burghound
2021 Domaine Leflaive Pouilly-Fuisse
RRP: $175 | Offer: $149
"The Pouilly-Fuissé is vivid and somewhat denser than the Macon. It’s more delicate and refined, hence also a better match for the vintage. What can I say? This is a rather elegant wine for the vintage, and it definitely has the Leflaive signature on it. Very good" - Steen Ohman, Winehog
Amazing value and better than ever. Will Kelley of The Wine Advocate sums it up with erudition; "...and it is in the attention and intelligence he has brought to bear on an ensemble of innumerable small details that the secret to their quality lies... The striking amplitude and dimension that are invariably tensile and incisive, and this, rather than any oak-derived patina or distinctive redox chemistry, is Guffens’s stylistic signature."
“Before Guffens, no one knew that Mâcon Peirreclos or even Pouilly-Fuissé could rival Corton-Charlemagne or Bâtard Montrachet. Now they do.” Andrew Jefford, The New France
“This peerless winemaker has surpassed himself with recent vintages.” Bettane & Desseauve, The World’s Greatest Wines
2022 Verget Mâcon-Bussières Vignes de Montbrison
RRP: $82 | Offer: $69
“This is one of Verget's most popular wines, coming from vines planted close to the border of Bussieres and Vergisson, touching Pouilly Fuisse. The vines face west and the vineyard is very stony. Average vine age is around 40 years. The free run juice was all vinified in barrel with 25% new oak. The wine was then aged for a further 8 months in barrel with regular batonnage. A superb rendition of this great value cuvée, the nose has a stony, flinty tension, bursting with energy and layered with lemon curd, wood smoke and vibrant white peach. The palate manages to brilliantly blend flesh and freshness, ripe orchard fruits cut by vibrant, lively acids. Poised and very drinkable already, this will shine in its youth. Impressive length suggests it may also improve over the next two to three years in bottle, too. Reliably excellent, punching above its weight.” 92 points - Thomas Parker MW
2022 Verget Mâcon-Pierreclos Lieu Secret
RRP: $92 | Offer: $78
“This wine is made from vines that touch Domaine Guffens-Heynen's legendary Chavigne vineyard. The exact location is a secret as Jean-Marie doesn't want his neighbour to sell these grapes to anyone but him! All barrel fermented with 25% new oak and ageing for 9 months before bottling. This is a generous, fleshy Macon in 2022. The nose is creamy with plump orchard fruit and a little vanilla spice. The palate follows in the same tone, with polished and juicy peaches and pears layered with baked vanilla, wood smoke and a little candied citrus peel. A broad, approachable and absolutely delicious wine which continues this cuvées strong run of form. Great value for money.” 92+pts! – Thomas Parker MW
2022 Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Le Haut de la Roche
RRP: $149 | Offer: $125
When the "Sur la Roche" vineyard was awarded Premier Cru status, vines at the top of the Roche de Vergisson were excluded because of their altitude. A decision that Jean-Marie Guffens finds absurd - particularly bearing in mind global warming and the public's thirst for fresher wines with lower alcohol. So this wine is cheaper and a little more mineral that the Roche itself. It neverless has excellent richness and length. This is a personal favourite - the tension and lithe, sleek profile make this such a drinkable, refreshing style despite its depth. Struck flint, citrus peel and mandarin oil form the nose, which has a lightly sweet spice to it. The palate's backbone is built on acid, cutting through the core of ripe citrus fruit. Intense yet with a sense of delicacy, there are notes of white flowers and just-ripe pears. Crunchy, with a hint of pithy texture, the finish is very long. This is a linear, steely wine but it still packs a punch of flavour. Matching vintage warmth and cool site beautifully.” 93+pts – Thomas Parker MW
2022 Verget Pouilly-Fuissé Les Combes Vieilles Vignes
RRP: $159 | Offer: $135
“This may not be Premier Cru, but it is often Verget's top wine - albeit not quite as thick and viscous as Sur la Roche. The vines face both North (30%) and South (70%) and Verget pick them in three separate "tris" - as at Domaine Guffens. This leads to grapes of different ripeness and acidity levels. These are fermented separately and then blended together for oak ageing in barrel - of which 25% is new. Outstanding again this year, the nose is focused but promises great things with pure citrus oil and fleshy orchard fruits. The wood spice is enveloped in fruit, beautifully balanced for such a young wine. The palate delivers on the potential from the nose, with great density of fruit tightly coiled and never heavy. This is a little closed now, but it shows great potential and will reward a little patience in bottle. This is a wine of power and precision, effortlessly balanced between acid, fruit and wood. There is almost grip to this wine. The fruit builds in tandem with subtle spice through the mid-palate, bursting on the very long finish without ever losing harmony. This will be even better with a year or two in bottle.” 95pts! – Thomas Parker MW
Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon
This Domaine had a start of (to me at least) of making nice, but fairly uninspiring Macon wines. Today the story is different, with high praise coming from many quarters.
2022 Heritiers Comte Lafon Macon Villages
RRP: $68 | Offer: $57
Screw cap closure. This is somewhat a Chabliesque style, with fine style, bright intense lemon pith fruit, a saline mineral edgy character and no oak but a pleasing "completeness".
2021 Heritiers Comte Lafon Macon-Milly-Lamartine
RRP: $73 | Offer: $62
This sees ageing in demi-muids, and has a "marine" quality like a 1er Cru Chablis, except a little richer. Fine, flinty with lemony freshness and finesse with doughy yeasty underlay.
2021 Heritiers Comte Lafon Macon Milly Clos du Four
RRP : $95 | Offer $79
Jasper Morris says that this is the best site in Milly-Larmartine, an amphitheatre facing east. "Concentration, class and compelling minerality."
Cheers, Randall, Issy, Amy, Rose & Nick