Josh Cooper shows how to respect the old and reinvent at once. Raised at Cobaw Ridge, he launched his label in 2012 with a single barrel and now turns out a restrained, quietly assured suite of wines. Chardonnay, pinot noir and cabernet sauvignon, are tuned for freshness, moderate alcohol, impressive depth and fine natural structure. He works with a network of growers with old vines in highly regarded plots. He has caring environmental farming values with organic-biodynamic thinking, obsessive fruit selection, and a belief that provenance outruns embellishment. Winemaking interventions are pared back to what’s necessary, allowing site and season to express.