Céline Gagnard, who has been making small, thoughtful and
forceful changes since taking over from her dad about 8 years ago, is on a
roll. All the wines - from Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc to Le Montrachet - come
from small plots of wonderfully mature vines and are concentrated, clean, ripe,
detailed and delicious.
The new oak component in the 1er Cru whites sits at about
33%, but for some reason it seems more "hidden" in recent vintages.
In 2023 Céline took a small departure in technique and, after 12 months, at the final racking, rested the whites in tank for 3-6 months giving a slightly more reductive style-overlay on top of the essential quality and depth of these great 2023’s. She used almost all the lees in the barrels, after the settling revealed that the quality of that lees was “amazing”. It gave more depth and complexity to the wines. These are a clear step up in quality to prior whites.
Look out for her almost Volnay-esqe, perfumed and silky
Chassagne Rouge, a Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens from newish plantings of super
clones and selection massale; and her classy 1er Cru Volnay Clos de Chenes.
Cheers, Randall
