Pre-Arrial | Due this October
2024 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
2024 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard
Céline Gagnard, who has been making small, thoughtful and forceful changes since taking over from her dad about 8 years ago, is on a roll. All the wines - from Bourgogne to Le Montrachet - come from small plots of wonderfully mature vines and are concentrated, clean, ripe, detailed and delicious. The new oak component in the 1er Cru whites sits at about 33%, but for some reason it seems more "hidden" in recent vintages.
In 2023 Céline took a small departure in technique and, after 12 months, at the final racking, rested the whites in tank for 3-6 months giving a slightly more reductive style-overlay on top of the essential quality and depth of these great 2024s. She used almost all the lees from the juice in the barrels (It was great, she said) giving more depth and complexity to the wines. These are a clear step up in quality to prior whites.
"The style has been refined to adapt to the effects of global warming and now seems to have an ideal blend of old-school Chassagne (Ramonet) with a modern, refined touch to cheer the palate with a feminine touch." - Steen Öhman, Winehog on the 2024s
2024 Passetoutgrain (50:50 Pinot/Gamay)$79 | Offer: $67
From vines planted in 1974!
"Fresh and bright aromas include those of pepper-suffused red berries and earth. The racy, delicious and nicely detailed flavors are supple and refreshing. This would make for a fine summer sipper." 86Pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
2024 Bourgogne Rouge$97 | Offer: $83
80% from mature vines planted in the commune of Volnay just below the Dom. Pousse d'Or cellar on the "upper" side of the Route Nationale; and 20% from very, very old vines with tiny yields in Chassagne. There is a spicy fruitcake and summer-pudding character, but with freshness of cranberry and clove / cinnamon notes too. (.9ha)
"... fresh and bright with a more elegant nose of the essence of red cherry and more discreet earth nuances. There is just a bit more volume to the equally energetic and well-detailed flavors that conclude in a lightly austere and slightly firmer finish that offers a bit more depth and persistence. A quality Bourgogne."
87Pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge$157 | Offer: $133
From various parcels of old vines planted between 1938(!) and 1987 with the family replacing single vines that die or are not in great shape. This has a little more richness, more firmness and more 'cut" than the Bourgogne, not surprisingly.
"A distinct pepper character adds breadth to the aromas of mostly red and dark currant. There is a bit more volume to the more refined, if not especially concentrated, flavors that display good length on the lightly rustic and dusty finale. This could be enjoyed young but I would suggest at least a few years of keeping first with the goal of adding better depth." 88Pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
2024 Volany 1er Cru 'Clos des Chenes'$322 | Offer: $273
From vines mostly planted in 1940 with a small parcel planted in 1960 by Laurence's grandfather and father. This well-sited 1er Cru is above Champans and Caillerets and adjacent to Taillepieds, great terroir! More class here with Turkish delight, spice and red fruits in an inviting display of elegance and power; cool and fresh, and with a latent power, it should age well. This shows perfect ripeness, yet somehow also some freshness and cut with spice, sandalwood, mixed crushed berries and a clarity and impressive freshness. It’s classy like a good Volnay 1er Cru should be.
"This is aromatically more elegant still because while the fruit profile is similar, there are more floral and spice nuances. The succulent, rich and vibrant larger-scaled flavors also exude evident minerality on the firm, moderately austere and sneaky long finale." 91Pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
2024 Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens$322 | Offer: $273
The old vines in this plot were suffering from a virus and would “shut down” due to the leaves not functioning properly, hence full and perfect ripeness was always a challenge. Celine replanted after 2018, and now the wine is more perfumed, less rustic and a classier red. The family has .2ha in the lower section of Rugiens Haut.
"Once again the nose is wonderfully elegant, pure and airy with its ultra-fresh aromas of the essence of crushed red cherry, plum and discreet spice wisps. The sleek and beautifully detailed flavors aren't especially dense but I like the sense of underlying tension as well as the evident minerality that seems to be even more apparent on the lightly austere, dusty and solidly persistent finale. This is really very good, especially for such young vines." 91Pts - Allen Meadows, Burghound
2024 Bourgogne Blanc$114 | Offer: $97
This comes from old vines planted in 1980. I've heard some winemakers say that really good chardonnay can have a little oak flavor even when it doesn't have oak; and this wine has been 100% matured in old barrels, but it has a little vanilla spice and pear Danish notes as though there is some new oak. It is a lovely wine all from the commune of Chassagne, and it has beautiful fresh pineapple fruit, almond meal and a seductive hint of reduction.
"... a simple, clean nose with light orchard fruit aromas. The palate is well-balanced with crisp acidity, fresh and vibrant, and actually within touching distance of the Chassagne Montrachet Village, with just a hint of white chocolate on the aftertaste.." 87Pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
2024 Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc$213 | Offer: $181 | $379 En-Magnum
This comes from 6 parcels of old vines planted between 1960 and 1989. The biggest one just near Criots Grand Cru, and another significant contributor just below Chenevottes. This has impressive richness, spiced pineapple fruit, chewy and concentrated palate, a perfect twang of oak, savory reduction, really impressive depth and nice length.
"... a simple, clean nose with light orchard fruit aromas. The palate is well-balanced with crisp acidity, fresh and vibrant, and actually within touching distance of the Chassagne Montrachet Village, with just a hint of white chocolate on the aftertaste." 88Pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
2024 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Vergers$295 | Offer: $251
From a 0.71ha parcel of old vines planted in 1972. This is one of the best Vergers from FG that I have tasted as a young wine. As Celine says the “lees was fantastic, so we used almost all of it in the barrels, and the style is a little more reductive.” It's very deep and dense, classy and long with perfect oak balance (about 30% new oak). This great 1er Cru is just 400mt SW of Montrachet itself.
"... an expressive nose with walnut and light fumé scents filtering through the citrus fruit. Good intensity. The palate has a subtle reduction on the entry, good intensity, more citrus driven than the Clos des Murées with a sorbet-fresh finish that leaves a dab of ginger on the aftertaste. Excellent." 92Pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
2024 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Les Caillerets$403 | Offer: $342
Along with La Romanée, this is considered by many as the jewel in the Chassagne premiers crus crown; this small ½ ha parcel was planted in 1962. The vineyard is made up of brown soil in one part and limestone in towards the top – each giving unique characters to the resultant wines. The Fontaines, as many families do, have long rows stretching from top to bottom, covering both soil types. “It’s the best combination for this vineyard. It has a slight white pepper characteristic, and the berries are very small, giving a little more ripeness” says Richard Fontaine. Although it’s fine, tight and long, there is a slight nuance of peach with the intense, stony minerality in this very complete wine. It also boasts stunningly beautiful pithy grip.
"... taken from tank after 11 months in barrel with one-third new oak. This has impressive presence on the nose with lemon curd, hazelnut and crushed stone notes. The palate is lively on the entry with a keen thread of acidity that maintains tension throughout. Nicely focused, this feels reassuringly elegant on the finish with impressive persistence. As good as the 2023, possibly better."
92-94Pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
2024 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru$1139 | Offer: $968 | Extremely Limited Qtys - Please Enquire
These grapes come from a small .33 ha parcel which was planted in 1979. Fontaine-Gagnard has one of the largest pieces of the smallest grand cru in the Côte de Beaune. Clive Coates MW named the Fontaine-Gagnard Criots as “one of the very best sources for this tiny grand cru.” This Criots is usually a little more floral and gently mineral that the bigger Batard, but it is always elegant and beguiling.
"... has a delightful bouquet with crushed stone infusing the bright citrus fruit, tightly coiled but opening with time in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite saline in the mouth with oyster shell on the weighty finish. There is real weight and presence here. No wonder it has the highest sugar level among all the Domaine's cuvées - the power is palpable in this Criots."
94-96Pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
2024 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru$1139 | Offer: $968 | Extremely Limited Qtys - Please Enquire
These grapes come exclusively from 3 parcels combining .33 ha with the earliest vines planted in 1960. The FG Batard is not usually as minerally or floral (white flowers) as the Criots, but is richer and "fatter". It has lovely tightness and drive.
"... a delectable nose not dissimilar to the Criots this year, beautifully defined with hints of oyster shell surfacing with time, quite Zen-like but paradoxically conveying real presence. The palate is very well balanced with wonderful poise. Impressive depth and concentration considering the growing season with a sprightly finish that fans out in a cool, calm and collected fashion. This is an excellent Bâtard Montrachet that has its nose in front of the Criots." 95-97Pts - Neal Martin, Vinous
Wines due October 2026 | Payment due with orders to secure pricing
