Céline Gagnard, who has been making small, thoughtful and forceful changes since taking over from her dad about 8 years ago, is on a roll. All the wines - from Bourgogne Rouge and Blanc to Le Montrachet - come from small plots of wonderfully mature vines and are concentrated, clean, ripe, detailed and delicious.
In 2023 Céline took a small departure in technique and, after 12 months, at the final racking, rested the whites in tank for 3-6 months giving a slightly more reductive style-overlay on top of the essential quality and depth of these great 2023’s. She used almost all the lees from the juice in the barrels - "it was so great". It gave more depth and complexity to the wines. These are a clear step up in quality to prior whites.
Look out for her almost Volnay-esqe, perfumed and silky Chassagne Rouge, a Pommard 1er Cru Rugiens from newish plantings of super clones and selection massale; and her classy 1er Cru Volnay Clos de Chenes. Cheers, Randall
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