2021 Domaine des Closiers Chenin Blanc 'Allegory' 750Ml Bottle
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Domaine des Closiers is certainly one of the most energetic and exciting estates to emerge from the Loire in recent years. Born of a historic estate with mature, beautifully sited vines and an oenelogist / vigneron hell-bent on creating a serious estate with cab-franc wines as good or better than the best.
The old estate was purchased in 2018 by Anatole de la Brosse, a management consultant who had a winemaking degree and had just sold his successful consultant business. He engaged the talent and know-how of two legends of the Loire Valley, both of whom now work at Closiers. Michel Chevré, of Clos L’Ecotard cut his teeth for many years working side-by-side with Thierry Germain helping him to develop his Biodynamic regime; and Nady Foucault, who along with (his now late brother) Charly, ran the legendary Clos Rougeard estate until it was sold in 2017.
Anatole loves Cabernet Franc despite the high standards it requires. In sub-maturity it develops its varietal aromas (vegetable, green pepper...) and in over-maturity, it will give way to slightly heavy black fruit compote aromas. Harvested at just maturity, Cabernet will keep its freshness thanks to the natural acidity of the grape and thus find a good balance of sugar (alcohol), acid, tannins, fruits. The king of Loire grape varieties then needs to be worked with engineering precision to express all its finesse. For Anatole, macerations must be slow and cold to let the aromas infuse and thus maintain the entire aromatic spectrum of polyphenols. Maintaining a low temperature also makes it possible to avoid any risk of developing Brettanomyces and bacteria.
The estate is located in Parnay, and unlike most of the appellation which is largely flat, this village is distinguished by its hillside vineyards giving more power and finesse.
- The estate is now 20ha and has been organic since the purchase. Harvest is done by hand
- Grapes are sorted 4 times! Once on the vine before harvest; 2nd, at the time of hand-picking; 3rd, on a triage table before destemming, and lastly on another triage table after the destemming.
- The maceration regime includes extended contact with the skins of around 1 month to give the wines depth and structure. Depending on the cuvée, they are either aged in tank, or barrel; but ALL WINES PASS THROUGH BARRELS.
“This kind of winemaking isn’t taught in school … Cabernet Franc with this expression - so dynamic, bursting with aromatics, and in the mouth, it’s explosive … I haven’t had a Saumur-Champigny like this in 10 years.”
- Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauve
- Michel Bettane & Thierry Desseauve